SPEZIATA
Spicy, Flavorful, Tasty
By Sandra Scalise Juneau
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As a food writer since the mid-1960s and having taught culinary classes to numerous groups across the U.S., I am pleased to be sharing with our Poggiorealesi families this series on regional Sicilian specialties. Speziata will feature recipes handed down through generations, gifted to us from both my Sicilian-born grandmothers, Virginia Maturana Scalise from Piena di Greci, and Angelina Caronna Accardo from Poggioreale.
La Storia
Several generations back, into a family of talented cooks, the newest daughter-in-law, trying to unlock the secrets of handed-down family recipes, asked her sister -in-law, “Why do we cut the ends off the roast before spicing and stuffing it?”
Her new sister-in-law replied, “I don’t know, that’s the way we have always done it. I’ll ask my Momma.”
When asked, her Momma replied, ““I don’t know, that’s the way we have always done it. I’ll ask your Nonna.”
When Nonna was asked, she replied, “That’s because your GiGi only had one small baking pan, so she cut the ends off the roast to fit the pan.”
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LA MORALE
The point is, don’t be stuck with a recipe as Gospel. Take each recipe and make it your own, possibly by changing or adding ingredients to what suits your taste, or even to change cooking methods to those most familiar to you.
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Caponatina
Also known as Caponata, this classic Sicilian specialty showcasing summertime’s abundance of eggplant celebrates the Arabesque culinary influences of perfectly balanced sweet, tart and spiced flavors. Prepared ahead and packaged into decorative jars, Caponatina is always a welcomed hostess gift.
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Makes 3 quarts or 12, 8-ounce jars
2 large, fully ripened eggplants, unpeeled, rinsed and dried
1 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided
Salt and black pepper
1 full stalk celery, cut into ½ -inch slices, reserve leafy tops
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
1½-2 cups sugar, divided
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup white wine vinegar
1 large can (28 ounces) whole tomatoes, drained, reserving liquid
½ cup sliced fresh basil
2 tablespoons dried oregano
2 cups chopped olives with pimentos, rinsed and drained
1 cup pine nuts, toasted
½ cup pickled caper berries, rinsed and drained
4-5 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Preheat oven to 350°F.
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1. Leaving skin on, cut eggplants into 1-inch cubes. Place eggplant cubes into a shallow baking pan, drizzle with ½ cup olive oil, and lightly salt and pepper to taste. Toss to evenly distribute.. Roast until slightly browned, about 20 minutes. Turn the pieces over and roast until slightly browned on all sides, about 10 more minutes. Set aside.
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2. In a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat, warm remaining ½ cup of olive oil. Sauté celery just until translucent, about 5 minutes. Remove celery and set aside, leaving oil in saucepan. Add onion to the saucepan and cook until translucent, about 7 minutes.
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3. Reduce heat to low, add tomato paste, and bring to a simmer. Stir in 1 cup sugar and the cinnamon and stir constantly as tomato paste simmers. Cook until mixture turns from bright red to a dark brick red color, about 5 minutes. Gradually blend in white wine vinegar.
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4. Cut canned tomatoes into medium sized pieces. Gently stir tomatoes into the simmering mixture in the saucepan. Gradually add reserved tomato liquid. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
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5. Stirring gently with a wooden spoon, carefully blend in the cooked eggplant and celery. Cook on medium heat, covered, for 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Chop the celery leaves. Add celery leaves, basil, and oregano to the pot. Fold in olives and pimentos. Add pine nuts, capers, and 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar. Taste and correct seasonings. Add more sugar if too tart, or the remaining tablespoon balsamic vinegar if too sweet.
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6. Spoon hot Caponatina into sterilized jars and seal. Allow sealed jars to cool completely to room temperature, then refrigerate for up to two months.
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NOTE: If not sealing into jars, allow mixture to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate, at least overnight, before serving. Caponatina will keep covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. When ready to serve, spoon chilled Caponatina onto lettuce leaves, with toasted Italian bread slices as an antipasto.
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